Friday, December 12, 2014

Crafting a Culinary Practical Exam for Success

Focused practice makes for a great practice! LOL!
Culinary craftsmanship doesn't always arrive when we plate our perfectly cooked food. The process to achieving perfection often takes place first on paper as we attempt to write a menu that will balance flavors, enhance the star of the plate and present a colorful, tasty dish. Understanding how each ingredient can bring out the flavor of another and push the profile of the dish into a delectable treat is our goal. 

I have been working on improving my skills as a chef, specifically working on testing my own skills.  In January I will be taking a practical exam for certified executive chef.  I also have previously earned what is called ACE or approved culinary evaluator.  The next level of ACE is to become a lead ACE.  This role would allow me to run ACE exams and gain another level of professional achievement. I have already achieved the status of CEC (certified executive chef) but due to achieving this level of certification through competition I am required to have taken the practical exam.  Those of us who have competed know that competition is actually much more difficult and earning a silver or better can be much tougher! My initial thought when I decided to do this was the benefit it would be to our students; they would see that as an instructor I am willing to humble myself and work on honing my cooking skills. The American Culinary Federation or ACF designates and runs certifications for chefs in our industry.  They are the only organization recognized through the department of labor for certifications in the United States. Once I decided to go through with pushing myself and take on the task of preparing for this exam I realized there was no turning back! 

This blog is the story of what all of this takes and the trials and tribulations of preparing for the test.  The first step was to write my menu and utilize all of the required ingredients for the exam.  The ingredients required for the certified executive chef are:
  • 1 each 10 ounce salmon fillet
  • 2 each 1.25 pound live Maine Lobster
  • 2 whole chickens, 2.5 – 3.5 pounds (fabricate to your menus specifications during the exam)
  • 2 ounces of smoked bacon
  • 1 pound of fresh spinach
  • 2 heads of Boston lettuce
  • 1 piece of Belgian endive
  • 1 pound of carrots
  • 3 each Russet or Yukon potatoes
  • 2 each globe artichokes
  • 2 each Bartlett pears or Granny smith apples
  • 1 pint grape tomatoes
The amounts are only suggested as a guideline for taking the exam; you do not need to use all of the amounts given. The fish course must use both of the seafood items as an appetizer portion.  The salad course is tossed and served with extra dressing on the side.  The main portion is served with two or more accompanying vegetables and starch along with 6 to 7 ounces of protein. I also must use 4 classical vegetable cuts (for example; Julienne, Tournee, Brunoise, Alumette, small dice, Paysanne, and Batonette). I also must use 4 different cooking methods; these could be fry, sauté, roast, boil, poach, steam or grill. Along with those requirements I have to prepare emulsified vinaigrette which has to be completed with a whisk and not with any kind of processor.  The test requires 2 different sauces utilizing different methods; this could be roux based, reduction, or butter.

With those guidelines I set out to write my menu.  For my first course I have chosen to prepare a seared salmon, butter poached lobster, citrus braised endive in a reduction of orange, lavender butter sauce. My salad course is a Boston lettuce, apple cider buttermilk, blue cheese vinaigrette, julienne Granny Smith apple, blue cheese crumble and roast grape tomatoes.  For my main course I have, sautéed chicken breast, chicken thigh and cranberry sausage, artichoke, tournee Yukon gold potato, brunoise carrots, wilted spinach with bacon and supreme sauce.
Salad course: Boston lettuce wrapped in cucumber, Granny Smith Apple, Roast Grape Tomatoes, Apple Cider buttermilk vinaigrette.
The menu has evolved each time I have practiced and worked through some of the details.  Understanding how to cook in an environment that requires specifics can sometimes be daunting as we want to add to our creative menu writing! This means that each time I add an ingredient it is going to dip into my valuable time of completion.  Yes, there is a time limit! I have three hours to complete all three courses and fifteen minutes to plate my food.  Each course is required to have 4 plates for service. A good example of adding to my plate would be my recent change in the sausage recipe; I did not like the first version and developed another version for the sausage.  This was great until I ran the practice last night; my meat grinder was attached to the only mixer available for my practice last night, and unfortunately it was not a great match to my meat grinder! In the middle of stuffing my sausage the grinder came free on the mixer and started to spin on the mixer! Holy forcemeat! I quickly shut it off and fortunately I had enough of the sausage in the casing but I will have to make sure I have the right equipment for the job!
 
Seared salmon, butter poached lobster, citrus braised endive in a reduction of orange, lavender butter sauce
To accomplish all of this a chef needs to practice and at the same time do some research and development of their food.  This is important as we distinguish what is working and what really does not work.  For practice I have written a choreographed plan that includes recipes, equipment list, ingredient list, and finally a prep list.  The final piece is significant as it will assist me in guiding me along in the exam and provide me with some important reminders of what tasks I need to be working on, if I am going to complete the test on time.  The other important factor understands the microscope you will be working under; the evaluator will stand, sit and watch as you perform skill after skill and see if you are in fact ready to achieve the desired level of status.  This also means you need to work neat, safe and maintain the highest level of sanitation throughout the exam.  Your plan should showcase importance of properly storing your food as you prepare it and provide a clean and sanitary environment throughout the exam.  Many chefs have failed this exam due to cross contamination and sadly have to walk away with a fail.  My plan needs to also have in place storage of dirty pans, pots etc. and other non-cooking procedures.  Plating your food for example should show a linear movement that will have your food going from point A to Z.  It should appear as if you have danced this dance enough times that you have no issues in completing.  This would be much the same as working your line in your restaurant; you know exactly where your ingredients are, you can easily prepare multiple plates and remain consistent in their outcome. 
Sautéed chicken breast, chicken thigh and cranberry sausage, artichoke, tournee Yukon gold potato, brunoise carrots, wilted spinach with bacon and supreme sauce.
Thus far I have completed two full runs of my practical and I can honestly tell you I am as tough on myself as I am on my students! At the end of each practice, after cleaning the volumes of dirty pots, pans and plates, I will sit down and review my pictures of my food and make notes of the things I need to change.  For my practices I have recruited students to come in and assist me in my cleanup and/or gather ingredients I may have missed in my initial setup.  They also will add notes to my packet as I work (I will usually ask them to write down something I need to change) and keep me on time by letting me know my time.  I am grateful beyond belief for this help!  During the exam I will not have anyone to assist me in the cleanup nor will I have a time keeper!  Why am I doing this? Oh yea, to show students I am willing to put myself through the same kinds of things I would ask of them.  The last two runs started at around 4:30 PM and with the extra help I have been able to get out of the kitchen by 8:30 PM. Keep in mind my day generally starts at around 7:30 AM at the college.  Not that I am complaining, okay maybe a little venting, but this is really a typical day for a lot of chefs.  I know because that was my schedule for many years and in some cases not only longer hours but everyday! 

Practice is a two day event; I have to mise  everything out the day before and make sure I have all of my ingredients.  This also includes going through my equipment making sure I have all of the equipment I will need for the test.  Each course is relegated to a specific sheet pan and each ingredient is stored in a reusable container, properly labeled with amount and ingredient.  I am allowed to peel, vegetables, pre-measure ingredients and bring in other items that will enhance my food but not found on the list of required ingredients.  It is amazing how much time it takes to setup for the practice itself and if I do not do a good job of it, the practice is marred by mistakes.  Fortunately it has not been too bad and I seem to be securing my entire product fairly well as my times have been pretty decent. 

There are so many details in taking a test like this that if you do not properly prepare yourself you will not pass.  For me it is not just about passing but doing so at a level that I feel I am at.  The work is something I am used to doing and understand the process.  That doesn't take away the soreness I feel the next day after a full run nor does it address the balance of my everyday work and completing this test.  Yet, there is something fulfilling in doing it, I have a sense of ownership in my work and I am happy to show students I am willing to walk the talk. 
 
Last nights notes and needed changes! 





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